Across the urban and rural corners of Myanmar there exists an ancient spiritual practice embedded into Theravada Buddhism and dating back to animist times - the worship of Nat spirits. This spirit cult is ignored by some while being fully embraced by others, alongside Buddhist or other mainstream religious practices.
Nat (spirit) altars including statues and offerings can be found in large sacred trees scattered throughout urban streets, rural villages and private homes. Nat ceremonies, performed by Nat Kadaws - spirit mediums - are the most developed ritual form of this practice. Spirit mediums bridge the gap between the earthly and spiritual realms.
Nat Kadaws make offerings to the Nats on behalf of clients who wish for health, luck, wealth and relationships. Thirty-seven are formally recognised in the spiritual tradition though many more exist. Most of the Nats were historical or legendary figures who suffered tragic deaths. Ceremonies typically involve dancing, singing, smoking, amplified live music, and offerings of money, food and alcohol. During the ceremonies, it is common for either the spirit mediums or the participants to become possessed by the nat spirit who is invoked.
In the past, most Spirit Mediums were women but over time more men have felt called to become Nat Kadaws. Men must adorn themselves as women for the Nats and therefore those that live as men dress as women in colourful, flowing garments, wear make-up, headdresses, and ornate jewellery before, during and after the ceremony. Others live as women full-time, identifying as transgender.
Click through this photo essay — and scroll over the images for captions — for an intimate glimpse into this evolving spiritual tradition.
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Chiara Luxardo is a visual storyteller based in London, UK. She lived and worked in Myanmar from 2015 to 2019, focusing on environment, gender, LGBTIQ+ projects and the organisation of Yangon Pride. See more of her work at www.chiaraluxardo.com.